CROQUETTES, CROQUETS, OR CROQUANTS: A PROVENÇAL SPECIALTY BY ANY NAME
My advice is to find some Muscat de Beaumes de Venise and forget the confusion of what to call them!
What’s in a name? That which we call a twice-baked almond-honey cookie by any other name would smell as sweet. Apologies to Shakespeare (who, by the way, would have called them biscuits!).
Part two of a three-part series about what you may find in Provence after the “big supper” (otherwise known as the “Gros Souper”) on Christmas Eve. Called “the thirteen desserts of Christmas” or “Les Treize Desserts de Noël,” tradition dictates that the desserts consist of dried fruit and nuts, fresh fruit, and sweets totaling 13 desserts to represent Jesus Christ and his 12 apostles at the Last Supper. The desserts are set out after Midnight Mass, all at once, on three layers of white table cloths (that represent the Holy Trinity). People who live in Provence know that everyone should take a piece of each dessert. (I don’t know what happens if you don’t, but I don’t want to tempt fate.)
Photo: W.T. Manfull |
Artisan Biscuitier of Les Secrets de Lola at L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market. Photo: W.T. Manfull |
Photo: W.T. Manfull |
popular part of “Les Treize Desserts de Noël.” (Even my good friend Lew, for whom dessert is defined as something chocolate, would choose to count croquettes as one of his thirteen desserts!)
Photo: W.T. Manfull |
Mise en place for croquettes. Photo: W.T. Manfull |
Photo: W.T. Manfull |
Croquettes pair sublimely well with another regional product—Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, a fortified wine or vin doux naturel—that hails from the Vaucluse village with the same name. It is north of Carpentras, tucked in to the southern base of the protective Dentelles de Montmirail. We have driven through this village while tooling around on our way to Vacqueyras and Gigondas but, for one reason or another, we have never stopped to do any tasting.
Beaumes de Venise is part of the Southern Rhone Valley wine region and one of the eighteen villages in Côtes-du-Rhône Villages Appellation that are considered “superior.” Although red wine is produced here, it is the fortified sweet white wine made from the grape called muscat blanc à petits grains that the area is world renowned for. This wine was made here as long ago as 2000 years ago and while the Papal Court was in residence in their Avignon palace some 700 years ago, the wine was so popular that production had to be increased to meet demand. The area was given appellation contrôlée status in 1945.
Photo: W.T. Manfull |
This muscat grape is a very aromatic, as the nose of our wine quickly revealed. The wine made from this grape tastes sweet, but pleasantly so. Honey, melon, stone fruits (especially apricots) and well, sweet grapes come to mind. It is delicate, not heavy or cloying. It is very appealing—one sip easily whets the palate for another. Its tastes linger in a nice, very long finish.
As a fortified wine, grape spirits are added, which stops fermentation and contributes to the inherent sweetness of the final product as well as ensures that the alcohol level reaches a minimum 15%. (As my friend Jerry points out, “Certainly 15% alcohol was indicative of a fortified wine back then, though [such an alcohol level] is not at all uncommon for red table wines today.”)
We selected a Muscat de Beaumes de Venise Le Chant des Griolles (2010) produced by Paul Jaboulet Aîné. Like many fortified wines, this particular one is available in half bottles, a perfect size because, as much as I like it, a little goes a long ways and, a properly re-corked bottle, refrigerated, keeps just fine for as long as a week. At $27, it may not sound like a bargain, but its price becomes much more appealing when compared to Sauterne.
A vintage poster for Biscuit H. Lalo |
Everyone likes croquettes! |
That photo of Pal is perfectly priceless. Could he be any more sincerely wanting just a wee taste? I'm guessing that you made the croquettes wrapped with the red ribbon and that cute little tag as well? Of course you did. *#&>% (word filled with bitter envy). And loving the mise en place. You're getting so good at it!
These look delicious and very much like biscotti in Italy. And I would be right there with you dipping them in the wine. Also, the photo of Pal is truly perfect – and catches her spirit wonderfully. (And her love of cookies!) My calissons have arrived, and perhaps I need to make some cro_____ (fill in the blank).
Bisous, David
I did make the little bag of croquettes…because they are so simple and quick to make! Yes, Pal loves them–she's like a cat after catnip! I wonder if d'Agneau would like them…hmmm.
I know you and Mark would like these…maybe as much as Pal!! They are France's version of biscotti although the cookie has less flour in it (I think) and the orange flower water gives it a distinctive taste. We will have to make some! Bis, S
Hello, I am so enjoying reading your posts on Provence as I am planning on a visit there this year. Please advise me on the best markets to visit for sourcing textiles, linen and ceramics. As I come from far I need to be spot on with my choices. Many Thanks
Hi Jennifer, Forgive me for my long delay in responding. All the big market will have good selctions of what you are interested in. St. Remy market is particularly good, as I recall. Tarascon has the well-known Souleiado textile museum where their fabric may also be purchased. Lourmarin, Gordes and Rousillon, too. Le Castellet, a tiny village, is where I found some of my favorite tablecloths…in stores. Good luck and have fun!